Burner clicks but won't light
You hear the spark and get no flame, or the clicking carries on after it lights.
Often points to
wet or dirty igniter, misaligned burner cap, spark module
Stove repair
Gas burners, electric coils, glass tops and induction
Morning porridge waiting on a burner that clicks and never catches, a coil that stays black on high, a crack spreading across the glass top. Call with the make and the cooktop type, and we arrange the visit.
Types we repair
Symptoms
Note which burner or zone misbehaves and whether the cooktop is gas, coil, glass or induction. That detail decides which part gets tested first.
You hear the spark and get no flame, or the clicking carries on after it lights.
Often points to
wet or dirty igniter, misaligned burner cap, spark module
Short lazy flames, yellow tips, soot on the bottom of pots.
Often points to
clogged burner ports, air shutter, regulator
One coil never turns red while the others work normally.
Often points to
element, receptacle block, infinite switch
The hot-surface light comes on, but one zone stays cool or only runs flat out.
Often points to
radiant element, infinite switch, limiter
The indicator stays lit long after the glass has cooled.
Often points to
surface lamp switch, control board
The zone beeps and shuts off, ignores the pot, or shows an error code.
Often points to
cookware compatibility, cooling fan, power board
Typical causes
Gas cooktops depend on a clean spark and a good air mix. Electric ones rely on switches and elements that take a beating every day.
Each gas burner has a ceramic electrode that sparks when you turn the knob. Boiled-over pasta water, grease and cleaning spray foul it or crack the porcelain.
What you notice
No spark, a weak spark, or clicking that won't stop.
What gets checked
The electrode is cleaned and dried, the cap alignment checked and the switches tested before the module is suspected.
On coil and radiant cooktops the knob is an infinite switch that cycles power on and off to hold a heat level. Its contacts burn over time.
What you notice
A zone stuck on high, one that won't heat, or a knob that feels loose.
What gets checked
Output is tested under load, since a burnt receptacle can pass for a bad switch.
Coils plug into receptacles under each pan, while radiant elements sit beneath the glass. Years of heating and cooling eventually break them open.
What you notice
One dead zone with the rest working normally.
What gets checked
Resistance is checked on the element and along the wiring back to its switch.
Cooking everything on one working burner? Book a visit.
Book stove repair in New Tecumseth, ONService area
Propane cooktops in country homes, glass-top ranges in new subdivisions, coil stoves in apartments near the old downtowns.
Other appliances to look at? Back to appliance repair in New Tecumseth, ON.
Main towns
Also on our routes
The glass can't be patched. A cracked top is replaced as a part, and the cooktop shouldn't be used until then because spills can reach the wiring underneath.
Water got into the igniter or the switch. Take off the caps, let everything dry for a day and try again. If it still clicks, the switch may need replacing.
Natural gas and propane should burn blue. Yellow or orange flames mean the burner isn't mixing in enough air, often from clogged ports. Have it checked, and make sure your carbon monoxide alarm works.
Yes. First try a pan that a magnet sticks to, since induction ignores aluminum and glass. If a magnetic pan still triggers an error, book a visit.
Around here people use both words for the same appliance. This page covers the cooktop part: burners, coils, glass and induction zones. Oven faults are a separate repair.
Book a visit
Leave your details and we call back with a time. For a gas smell, get out of the house first and phone the gas utility.
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